Tips For Buying a Used Film Camera

Buying a Used Film Camera: 10 Quick Checks Before You Buy

New to film photography? Learn how to confidently buy a 35mm camera with these 10 simple checks — from batteries and shutters to lens condition and pricing.

You’ve spotted a used film camera at a flea market, camera shop, or garage sale — and you’re wondering, does it work? That’s the right question to ask first.

Film cameras are everywhere these days: thrift stores, antique markets, online auctions, and camera shows. But unless you’re buying from a knowledgeable seller, it’s smart to do a few basic checks before buying. Film cameras are wonderfully mechanical, but they’re also decades old — so a careful look can save you money and disappointment.

I buy film cameras regularly and have a simple, experience-based checklist that helps me quickly decide whether a camera is worth buying. These 10 tips will help you do the same — no tools required.

1. Check the Battery Compartment

Most film cameras use a battery — even if it’s only for the light meter. Open the battery door and look for corrosion, residue, or leaking cells. If you see heavy corrosion or a crusty battery inside, skip it. Cleaning is tricky, and damaged electronics are often beyond repair unless the camera is rare or for display only.

2. Make Sure the Battery Type Is Available

Some older cameras use discontinued mercury cells or uncommon voltages. Stick with models that take readily available types like LR44, SR44, or AA batteries. You’ll save yourself a lot of hassle later.

3. Check the Price

Before buying, search the camera model online — eBay “sold” listings, KEH, or camera forums usually show consistent prices. If the asking price is much higher, don’t overpay. There are plenty of great cameras out there.

4. Know the Film Type

A quick Google search will tell you what film the camera takes. For beginners, 35mm cameras are ideal: film is easy to find at most pharmacies or big-box stores. 120 film (used in medium-format cameras) offers great image quality but is harder to find and costs more. Avoid less common formats like 110, 127, or 620, and steer clear of Advantix (APS) cameras — that film hasn’t been made in years.

5. Test the Film Advance

If the camera has a manual advance lever, try it. If it’s jammed, press the shutter button. If the shutter doesn’t fire, the mechanism may be stuck or broken. Repairs can be expensive, so it’s usually best to move on.

6. Inspect the Shutter and Film Chamber

Open the camera back and check inside — it should be clean and free of rust or residue. For SLRs, advance the film and press the shutter while pointing the camera toward a light source: the shutter curtain should open smoothly, the mirror should lift, and you should see light through the lens. For point-and-shoots, open the back and press the shutter (if the camera has power). If nothing happens, it may have electrical issues.

7. Check the Camera Back

Make sure the door opens and closes securely. Loose hinges or gaps can lead to light leaks, which will fog your film and ruin your photos.

8. Look for Cracks or Damage

Scratches and scuffs are normal and give a camera character. But cracks, bent parts, or open seams can cause light leaks or structural issues. Avoid cameras with major physical damage.

9. Inspect the Lens (for SLRs and Interchangeable-Lens Cameras)

Hold the lens up to a light. A little dust is fine, but look out for mold, haze, or deep scratches. Rotate the focus and zoom rings — they should turn smoothly and quietly. Sticky or gritty movement is a red flag.

10. Test the Electronics

If the camera has a light meter, LCD, or auto-exposure system, check that they work. Ask the seller if a battery is installed so you can test it. If they can’t or won’t provide one, it’s safer to pass.

Final Thoughts

If a camera passes these simple tests and the price feels fair, you’ve likely found a winner. Buying vintage or used cameras always carries a little risk — even the best-looking one might need minor servicing — but these quick checks will help you avoid costly surprises.

Take your time, do your research, and enjoy the hunt. A good film camera can last decades — and once you hear that satisfying click, you’ll understand why so many photographers still shoot film.

Nikon N90s 35mm SLR Film Camera

 

I recently purchased a Nikon N90s from Used Photo Pro in Indianapolis, sold in “as-is” condition. UPP has a section in their store dedicated to working film cameras and lenses, but these items come with no warranty. That’s because many of them have one or more issues—something might not work properly, or the gear may show significant cosmetic wear. In exchange for these caveats, prices are fixed and budget-friendly. A camera body typically runs around $25.

The N90s I purchased was fully functional except for one flaw: the top LCD screen was burned out. Fortunately, settings were still visible through the viewfinder, but the lack of a working top LCD display was a definite compromise. However, this body came with the MB-10 vertical battery grip, which made it worth purchasing.

I ran 2–3 rolls through the camera without issue, but I found the missing LCD confirmation annoying—especially when trying to verify or setting up metering modes, non-DX ISO settings, and exposure programs. Because of this, I didn’t put the N90s into my regular shooting rotation.

Then, a few days ago, I spotted another “as-is” N90s body at UPP. Mechanically it looked sound, though it had heavy cosmetic wear. The big plus? The LCD screen worked! I bought it and swapped over the MB-10 grip from the earlier body.

I took the newer N90s out for a street photography and really enjoyed the experience and using the N90s. It’s fast, comfortable in the hand, and loaded with features making it a really nice camera to use. Some key specs include:

·       Lens mount: Nikon F-mount

·       Autofocus: Fast and accurate with single, continuous, and manual modes

·       Shutter speeds: Bulb, 30 seconds up to 1/8000

·       Flash sync: Up to 1/250 sec—ideal for studio strobes and consistent with many digital studio setups

·       Motor drive: Built-in, with film advance up to 4 FPS

·       Exposure modes: Program (P), Shutter priority (S), Aperture priority (A), Manual (M)

·       Metering: Matrix, center-weighted, and spot

·       Viewfinder: Bright and easy to work with

·       Custom settings: 17 user-configurable functions

·       Power: 4 AA batteries

The Nikon N90s was produced in Japan from 1994 to 2001. At the time, it was considered Nikon’s top-tier enthusiast camera—sitting just below the professional-level Nikon F4. It was eventually succeeded by the more advanced Nikon F100.

Here are photos taken with my Nikon N90s using Ilford HP5+ and Kentmere 400:

Ilford Kentmere 400 developed with Kodak D-76 1+1

Ilford HP5+ developed with Kodak D-76 1+1

Nikon Lite Touch Zoom AF

The Nikon Lite Touch Zoom is a pocketable, good looking zoom lens point & shoot with several nice features and a few drawbacks. I've had the Lite Touch for several years and have taken it out often. The image quality is good, the lens is sharp and the zoom provides flexibility. 

Based on my experience here are the camera's advantages / nice features and drawbacks.

Advantages:

• Sharp zoom lens - 35-70mm f/3.5-6.5 zoom
• Panorama and normal mode
• Adequate flash with multiple modes
• Zoom lens only extends 1-1/4"
• Readily available CR123A battery
• Quick focus
• DX coding (ISO 100 - 1000)

Disadvantages:

• Very small viewfinder
• All buttons are small, rubberized and surprisingly hard to push. The shutter release button (at least on my camera) has to be pushed quite hard to activate.
• No lens cap or cover
• Unable to manually set ISO
• Zoom lens is "stopless" (doesn't stop at 35, 50, etc.). It can be stopped anywhere between 35 thru 70mm. However, except at 35mm or 70mm you don't know what the zoom is set at.

One weird feature of the camera is that the film is loaded "backwards". Looking at the back the film door opens R to L. The film is also loaded "upside down" compared to most cameras. 

Overall, a nice camera for everyday snapshots, street photography or vacation / traveling. Here are a few shots using a roll of Ultrafine Warehouse Finesse 400 developed with Kodak D-76.

  

Zorki 2-C Russian Goodness

I purchased this colorful Zorki 2-C a couple of years ago from Roberts Camera's Used Photo Pro division. 

the Zorki 2-C is a Russian knock-off of a Leica II. It's a surprisingly well built, heavy all metal rangefinder. I mounted it with an f/2.8, 52mm Industar N-61 screw type lens. Very inexpensive and surprisingly good.

The Zorki is fully manual. 35mm film is loaded on the bottom via removal of the bottom plate. You need to cut a longer leader on the film for this style of camera.

Speeds are B, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250 & 1/500. As with cameras of this type if you want to change the speed you do it BEFORE you advance the film and which cocks the shutter.  Why, no clue, but that's what I've read and have always done. There is no light meter. There is a viewfinder to focus and one for composition. Super basic.

I loaded the camera up with a roll of Arista EDU 400 and shot the roll around Indianapolis. 

The Zorki 2-C is a handsome camera that I enjoy using. 

Here are a few photos from the most recent shoot:

Yashica Electro 35 GSN - A Cool Rangefinder

I tried out my Yashica Electro 35 GSN the other day with some Ilford Delta 400 35mm film. This camera has classic rangefinder lines. It's super solid & built like a brick. The camera has a 45mm f/1.7 lens. Perfect for street photography.

The camera is semi-manual. The variable is the aperture. Speed is automatic. You simply partially push the shutter button and there is a red or orange arrow in the viewfinder. You turn the aperture the direction of the arrow until the light turns off. If you are shooting on a tripod or from the hip there is a yellow and red light on top that does the same thing. The only option on speed is bulb, Auto & flash. 

The camera has a hot shoe if you desire a flash. Focus is like butter. There is a nice rest for your finger to aid in focus. ASA can be set from 25 to 1000. Also, there is a predominate battery check button on the back. Push it with a hot battery and the film counter window lights up!

The biggest issue with this camera is that you really need a battery. It fires without one but it goes to it's default settings. The battery is not standard. The Electro used a 5.6V mercury battery that has a unusual shape. A 6V 4LR44 works in a pinch. I was unable to find this battery at any store, so I bought a few off brand online. Seems to work fine.

 I really like this camera. The shutter is SUPER quiet which makes it excellent for street photography. The film advance is smooth and it loads easily. I'm a fan. Here are some photos from this past weekend.

Note, my Electro 35 GSN has a light leak that showed up at the end of the second roll. I gave it a good look and it appears some of the light seals have dried up and flaked off. No problems ... I'll seal the back with gaffers tape in the future.

Olympus Infinity Jr - A Simple P&S with B&W Film

I like to occasionally use 35mm point & shoot cameras.  Why, because I don't have to think about features. Don't get me wrong, I like full featured or completely manual SLRs, TLRs, medium format cameras as well. It's just sometimes I want to point & shoot.

The Olympus Infinity Jr. is such a camera. I found this camera at a Goodwill some time ago. I finally had an opportunity to shoot a roll of B&W and the results came out OK. I had shot a roll of color previously. Nothing special, but that's what I expected because the color didn't come out anything special either. 

The Infinity Jr. has a fairly sharp 35mm f/3.5 lens. It's somewhat quiet, but there is a noticeable shutter sound. This makes it OK for street photography. It's not quit pocketable, but easily fits in a small bag or purse. There is a sliding lens cover which is nice. Sliding it open turns the camera on. Features are minimal. There is a self timer, DX coding, a flash that can be set to auto, fill & off. A mode function in the back that lets you set the date stamp (although on mine this function doesn't work).

I shot a roll of Freestyle Arista.EDU film around town in both sunlight, overcast & moderate lighting. All the images were a bit soft but perfectible useable. Uses a standard 3v 123A battery.

I probably won't use this camera again since I have many other point & shoots that are sharper, faster & more pocketable. However, if you have one, you shouldn't kick it out of the bed. 

Some photos