New Week Different Camera – Canon A-1

This week’s “New Week Different Camera” is a Canon A-1. I’ve used this camera about a year ago after I got it but thought I should give it a go again. 

What is the camera: The Canon A-1 was an advanced amateur / prosumer manual focus FD-mount 35mm SLR. The camera was introduced in 1978 and manufactured until 1985. It was preceded by the Canon EF and replaced by the Canon T90. It was considered the 1st SLR that had all 4 exposure modes (P, A, S, M or P, Av, Tv, M in Canon speak). Competitive equivalents of the time were the Nikon FE, Minolta XD-11, Pentax ME Super and the Olympus OM-2N to name a few

Where did I get the camera: I purchased the Canon A-1 (body only) at Roberts Camera “as-is” during their August 2025 Tent Sale. Roberts has a bi-annual Tent Sale (also called a Garage Sale) to sell excess inventory / unloved / “parts only” cameras and accessories. They either sell items on a set price or by “box”. They offer different sizes of boxes and you pay a fixed price for the box. Anything that fits into the box only costs the price of the box.  

I got the A-1 along with 31 other camera bodies I was able to fit into 4 boxes.

One note, about ½ of the cameras of the 32-camera lot ended up being unusable (which was expected).

How much did it cost: Each box was $25 so I spent $100 for the 32 cameras so the A-1 worked out to be just over $3.

Key features:

• Canon FD lens mount (there are many affordable FD lenses available)
• All 4 exposure modes (P, A, S & M) – I used P mode
• Shutter speeds from 30s – 1/1000 including B
• Flash sync speed of 1/60 
• Shutter button lock
• Convenient battery check light
• TTL center weighted metering
• LED red exposure display at bottom of viewfinder (speed & aperture)
• ISO range from 6 – 12,800
• Uses LR44 batteries (6v total)
• All metal body
• Exposure compensation dial

Plus / Negatives based on my experience: 

Pros = good looking all black camera, easy to use in all exposure modes, excellent ISO range, easy to find and affordable lens selections  

Negatives = LED speed and aperture readout in viewfinder is sometimes hard to see in bright settings, won’t work without batteries, flash sync speed is too slow to be used with studio lights at typical light settings, top speed is reasonable but not as fast as later SLR’s & develops the typical Canon SLR shutter “squeal” (mine has it).

Thoughts / Will I use it again: Overall, a great-looking capable camera! It has all the features I use for street and casual photography. The viewfinder is bright and the light meter on my version is true. I have all the lenses I normally use for SLR’s (28, 35 & 50mm) so I can use the A-1 in most settings I prefer. The main downside on my version is the shutter squeal is very noticeable so limits its use as a street photography camera. I will definitely use the A-1 again.

My rating: 4 out of 5

Images:

Kentmere 400

Kentmere 400

Kentmere 400

Kentmere 400

Kentmere 400

Kentmere 400

Kentmere 400

Kentmere 400

Kodak 5302

Kodak 5302

Fomapan 200

Fomapan 200

Fomapan 200

Fomapan 200

Fomapan 200

Fomapan 200

Fomapan 200

New Week Different Camera – Nikon N90s SLR

I’ve started a photography / blogging project I’m calling “New Week Different Camera”. The plan is to use a different camera each week. This will be the primary (but not only) film camera I use during the week. The goal is to try cameras I haven’t used recently / previously or don’t get regular use. After the week, I’ll list some information on the camera and summarize my thoughts.

The first camera is my Nikon N90s. I’ve written about this camera previously:

N90S Blog Post - Features

Details about the camera’s functions are listed on the earlier post.

For the project, here are the topics about the camera:

What is the camera: The Nikon N90s was an advanced SLR for the time. It has all the features of an advance camera. Nikon introduced the N90s in 1994 and discontinued it in 2004. It was proceeded by the N90/F90 version and replaced by the Nikon F100 starting in 1998. The N90s has a “classic” Nikon SLR look and feel. My copy has the accessory battery grip which adds to the weight / size but gives you flexibility with a portrait-oriented shutter release button.

Where did I get the camera: I purchased the Nikon N90s (body only) at Used Photo Pro “as-is”. UPP is a part of Roberts Camera located in Indianapolis. 

Used Photo Pro sells used digital and film cameras and accessories both online and instore. Cameras purchased in-store are “behind the case”, not in the case but in back and on a series or “as-is” shelves (recently labeled “Outlet”). The cameras on the “as-is” shelf are low / fixed priced but come with no guarantee. However, in my experience the cameras purchased “as-is” work but almost always have something wrong with them mechanically or cosmetically. If you have a question the UPP staff can answer them for you. “As-is” is only sold in-store.

How much did it cost: The N90s body cost $20. (I had plenty of F-Mount lenses to use)

Key features: Important features are on the previous blog post.

Plus / Negatives based on my experience: Pros = all advance features for an SLR, top speed of 1/8000, super-fast focus, ability to use all my F-Mount lenses &additional portrait-oriented shutter release button. Negatives = Very heavy (with battery grip), not stealthy (loud mirror slap) for street photography (what I primarily use it for) & difficult fitting in a shoulder camera bag with the battery grip attached. While advanced when introduced there were other cameras on the market with similar specs, so IMO it only differentiated itself you wanted a Nikon.

Nikon N90s without the battery grip

Thoughts / Will I use it again: Overall, a good-looking capable camera! Many similar features to the F100, F4 & F5 but clearly not as capable. More than likely I won’t use the camera all that much because I have the F100, F4 and F5 which have the same form factor but have more features. However, if I didn’t have any of the other cameras I’d use it regularly. 

My rating: 3.5 out of 5

Images from the week:

Indianapolis Airport with Kentmere 400

Indianapolis Airport with Kentmere 400

Indianapolis Airport with Kentmere 400

Tipton, Indiana with Kentmere 400

Indianapolis with Lucky SHD400 at 200

Indianapolis with Lucky SHD400 at 200

Elwood, Indiana with Lucky SHD400 at 200

Elwood, Indiana with Kentmere 400

Elwood, Indiana with Kentmere 400

Indianapolis with Lucky SHD400 at 200

Indianapolis with Lucky SHD400 at 200

Indianapolis with Lucky SHD400 at 200

2025 Film Camera Year In Review

Film photography is a hobby for me. One of the more enjoyable aspects of the hobby is testing and trying different cameras. Another aspect is buying "as-is" cameras from Used Photo Pro located in Indianapolis. I have a number of film cameras in regular rotation that get used the most often. Other cameras get less regular use. 

I keep a worksheet on cameras and film stocks I use as a reference for future information. In reviewing my worksheet for 2025 I used 248 rolls or packs of film. This includes 35mm, 120 and i-Type Polaroid instant film. I used 60 different cameras in 2025. 

Of the 60 cameras used my top 4 were my Nikon F100, Contax T2, Konica Hexar Silver and Leica M6. These 4 cameras accounted for 45.4% of the rolls used. Honorable mention goes to my Hasselblad X-Pan at number 5. 

I tend to use rangefinder or rangefinder styled cameras that have point and shoot AF and size (Contax T2 & Konica Hexar) the most. When I want a feature loaded camera I stick to higher end SLR's like the Nikon F100. Whenever I do street photography I almost always have my Leica M6.

The advantage being close to Roberts Camera / Used Photo Pro in Indianapolis is that they have a very active and well stocked "as-is" section. The inventory changes actively and while the cameras and lens have something wrong with them they almost always work. The cost for an "as-is" camera body is typically $20. Therefore, I buy these type of cameras regularly just to test and play with.  These types of cameras were at least 25% of the cameras I used in 2025.

Here are the cameras I used in 2025 and the film count. 

• Nikon F100 = 39
• Contax T2 = 38
• Konica Hexar Silver = 18
• Leica M6 = 14
• Hasselblad X-Pan = 13
• Contax 137 MA Quartz = 8
• Nikon F4 = 8
• Mamiya 6 = 7 (120)
• Nikon N90s = 7
• Canon EOS A2 = 5
• Minox 35ML = 5
• Olympus OM-10 = 5
• Polaroid i-Type = 5 (i-Type)
• Contax G1 = 4
• Canon A-1 = 3
• Fed 2 = 3
• Fed 4M = 3
• Holga 120S = 3 (120)
• Leica CL = 3
• Olympus XA = 3
• Canon TX = 2
• Contax RTS = 2
• Fed 2 Zarya = 2
• Horizon S3 = 2
• Kiev-19 = 2
• Minolta Maxxum 3000i = 2
• Minolta XD-5 = 2
• Nikon FE = 2
• Nikon Nikonos-III = 2
• Olympus OM 2000 = 2
• Olympus Stylus = 2
• Ricoh GR1s = 2
• Yashica 44 = 2 (127)
• Zorki 4K = 2
• Acmel-MX = 1 (Minox film)
• Agfa Isolette = 1 (120)
• Asahi Pentax Spotmatic = 1
• Canon AF 35ML = 1
• Canon VL2 = 1
• Foldex 90 = 1 (120)
• Kiev 4M = 1
• Kodak Brownie Hawkeye = 1 (620)
• Konica Autoflex A3 = 1
• Konica Autoflex T = 1
• Leica AF-C1 = 1
• Lomography Konstructor = 1
• Minolta 110 Zoom = 1 (110)
• Minolta 7000i = 1
• Minolta 9xi = 1
• Minolta X7xi = 1
• Nikon F2 = 1
• Nikon F60 = 1
• Nikon Lite Touch Zoom = 1
• Nikon N50 = 1
• Nikon N70 = 1
• Ricoh KR-5 Super II = 1
• Universal Stere-All = 1
• Vivitar 440 PZ = 1
• Yashica 230AF = 1
• Zenit 122 = 1

Of this list several of the cameras ended up not working or failed. My Ricoh GR1 & Horizon 3 (both cameras that were on my bucket list) and were purchased at market price failed and were returned for full purchase price. I still have to develop the roll of Minox film shot in the Acmel-MX spy camera so I'm not sure if that camera is fully functional. All the other cameras are in good through "work but not the best" shape. 

My latest market priced purchase was my Contax G1. I have put 4 rolls through it since purchased and I think this will definitely get more use in 2026.

Bottomline, film photography remains an active hobby! 

 

Ricoh KR-5 Super II SLR

I purchased a Ricoh KR-5 Super II SLR from Roberts Camera's annual Tent Sale this year. At the tent sale all equipment is purchased "as-is" which means there is no guarantee the equipment works. However, the prices are so low (purchased by volume) it's work the risk. 

I mounted a Pentax f/1.2 50mm lens and added a battery. The camera worked including the light meter. 

Here are a few specs and what I like / dislike about the camera. The Ricoh KR-5 Super II is a fully manual, manual focus SLR using a Pentax K mount lenses. Based on information I read it was considered an "affordable, student camera".

Features:

• Shutter speed from bulb to 1/2000,
• Flash sync speed of 1/125
• Manual ISO between 25-1600
• Manual "split screen" focusing
• Shutter operates without a battery, but the meter uses a standard LR44 / SR44 styled battery
• + o - style light meter
• Shutter release lock 

I tested the KR-5 with a couple of rolls of film. I found the camera is on the small side so somewhat awkward to hold. It's also very light weight and plasticky. However, if you like all manual, light weight cameras with all needed features then this is a camera for you. I consider this camera the plastic cousin to the more robust Pentax K1000.

Here are images from the test rolls of Kentmere 400.

I found with my Ricoh KR-5 Super II that many images are VERY soft. Not sure if this is the lens or the camera (focus slightly off?). However,  it's a nice looking camera that covers all the bases.

Tips For Buying a Used Film Camera

Buying a Used Film Camera: 10 Quick Checks Before You Buy

New to film photography? Learn how to confidently buy a 35mm camera with these 10 simple checks — from batteries and shutters to lens condition and pricing.

You’ve spotted a used film camera at a flea market, camera shop, or garage sale — and you’re wondering, does it work? That’s the right question to ask first.

Film cameras are everywhere these days: thrift stores, antique markets, online auctions, and camera shows. But unless you’re buying from a knowledgeable seller, it’s smart to do a few basic checks before buying. Film cameras are wonderfully mechanical, but they’re also decades old — so a careful look can save you money and disappointment.

I buy film cameras regularly and have a simple, experience-based checklist that helps me quickly decide whether a camera is worth buying. These 10 tips will help you do the same — no tools required.

1. Check the Battery Compartment

Most film cameras use a battery — even if it’s only for the light meter. Open the battery door and look for corrosion, residue, or leaking cells. If you see heavy corrosion or a crusty battery inside, skip it. Cleaning is tricky, and damaged electronics are often beyond repair unless the camera is rare or for display only.

2. Make Sure the Battery Type Is Available

Some older cameras use discontinued mercury cells or uncommon voltages. Stick with models that take readily available types like LR44, SR44, or AA batteries. You’ll save yourself a lot of hassle later.

3. Check the Price

Before buying, search the camera model online — eBay “sold” listings, KEH, or camera forums usually show consistent prices. If the asking price is much higher, don’t overpay. There are plenty of great cameras out there.

4. Know the Film Type

A quick Google search will tell you what film the camera takes. For beginners, 35mm cameras are ideal: film is easy to find at most pharmacies or big-box stores. 120 film (used in medium-format cameras) offers great image quality but is harder to find and costs more. Avoid less common formats like 110, 127, or 620, and steer clear of Advantix (APS) cameras — that film hasn’t been made in years.

5. Test the Film Advance

If the camera has a manual advance lever, try it. If it’s jammed, press the shutter button. If the shutter doesn’t fire, the mechanism may be stuck or broken. Repairs can be expensive, so it’s usually best to move on.

6. Inspect the Shutter and Film Chamber

Open the camera back and check inside — it should be clean and free of rust or residue. For SLRs, advance the film and press the shutter while pointing the camera toward a light source: the shutter curtain should open smoothly, the mirror should lift, and you should see light through the lens. For point-and-shoots, open the back and press the shutter (if the camera has power). If nothing happens, it may have electrical issues.

7. Check the Camera Back

Make sure the door opens and closes securely. Loose hinges or gaps can lead to light leaks, which will fog your film and ruin your photos.

8. Look for Cracks or Damage

Scratches and scuffs are normal and give a camera character. But cracks, bent parts, or open seams can cause light leaks or structural issues. Avoid cameras with major physical damage.

9. Inspect the Lens (for SLRs and Interchangeable-Lens Cameras)

Hold the lens up to a light. A little dust is fine, but look out for mold, haze, or deep scratches. Rotate the focus and zoom rings — they should turn smoothly and quietly. Sticky or gritty movement is a red flag.

10. Test the Electronics

If the camera has a light meter, LCD, or auto-exposure system, check that they work. Ask the seller if a battery is installed so you can test it. If they can’t or won’t provide one, it’s safer to pass.

Final Thoughts

If a camera passes these simple tests and the price feels fair, you’ve likely found a winner. Buying vintage or used cameras always carries a little risk — even the best-looking one might need minor servicing — but these quick checks will help you avoid costly surprises.

Take your time, do your research, and enjoy the hunt. A good film camera can last decades — and once you hear that satisfying click, you’ll understand why so many photographers still shoot film.

My Darkroom

I put together a home DARKROOM. I've been developing & scanning photographic film for years but have not printed any of my photos. After taking a darkroom class earlier this year I felt it was time.

My goals were: 

• Put the darkroom together "on the cheap" 
• No modifications to the space. 

I wanted to keep the total cost (not including chemicals) under $300. This budget combined with no physical modifications meant if I didn't like using a darkroom the amount invested wasn't large and it would be easy to return the space to its original condition.

I didn't want to buy anything new if possible. Repurposed items available at home, items purchased used or cheaply. The only item purchased at full price was the Paterson Darkroom Safelight. The total cost came in just under $250.

First, the location. I have a "spare" bathroom I've used to develop film for several years. The bathroom is split into a sink area and then a separate shower / tub toilet area. The shower / toilet area has a door so it's separated from the sink area. This is the space I used for the darkroom. The space I'm using is about 7'x4'.

Here's what the space looks like & includes:

I put the enlarger on a rolling utility cart that fit nicely under the window and next to some built in shelves. The cart holds is big enough to hold the enlarger, the paper easel & an old iPhone that I'm using as a timer (red light accessibility setting). 

Next to the rolling cart is a storage cabinet (for towels, etc) that is unused. I put a small adjustable height folding table on top of it to hold the chemical trays. 

The safelight is simply propped up securely on a towel rack. 

In the shower / tub there is a clothing rack that has a plastic cover over it. That is the space where I'll hang the prints to dry. Inside the clothing rack is a piece of acrylic plastic and squeegee to wipe water off the paper. On the bottom of the tub under the spout is an unused car oil changing pail. I put legs on one side so when in the shower the curved lip is the lower than the water level so water will run out. This is where I'll wash the developed and fixed paper. 

Finally, I used some black out curtain material from Amazon (aluminized on one side / black on the other) to cover the window. I simply cut it to shape and mounted it with Velcro. I did a light tight check and ended up putting gaffers tape up on several spots. 

After the sun sets with the sink area lights off the darkroom is completely dark. During the day there is light gap under the door so I've made a simple black cloth snake I put under the door. It works. 

Here's a breakdown of the items and costs:

• Enlarger - Omega ColorPrintMaker - Facebook Marketplace = $100
• Paper easel - came with the enlarger
• Paterson Darkroom Safelight - Roberts Camera = $62
• Plastic 30'x20" folding table - Amazon = $30
• Trays & tongs - Roberts Camera "tent sale" = <$5
• Paterson Micro Focus Finder - from a friend = free
• Timer - unused iPhone stopwatch app with red light setting
• Oil changing pail - had at home / repurposed
• Drying rack with plastic over - have been using for film developing
• Plexiglas and squeegee - Lowes = ~$25
• Hanging clips - have had available but not used
• Black out curtain - Amazon = $20
• Enlarger rolling table - had at home / repurposed

I also bought a 250 count of Ilford Multigrade 8x10 paper from Roberts Camera at their tent sale for $40 (it had just past the expiration date). I also have about 3x1/2 assorted boxes of paper left over from my darkroom class. 

So I'm ready to go. I'll check back in after my first test session on any changes needed. Should be fun!