2025 Film Camera Year In Review

Film photography is a hobby for me. One of the more enjoyable aspects of the hobby is testing and trying different cameras. Another aspect is buying "as-is" cameras from Used Photo Pro located in Indianapolis. I have a number of film cameras in regular rotation that get used the most often. Other cameras get less regular use. 

I keep a worksheet on cameras and film stocks I use as a reference for future information. In reviewing my worksheet for 2025 I used 248 rolls or packs of film. This includes 35mm, 120 and i-Type Polaroid instant film. I used 60 different cameras in 2025. 

Of the 60 cameras used my top 4 were my Nikon F100, Contax T2, Konica Hexar Silver and Leica M6. These 4 cameras accounted for 45.4% of the rolls used. Honorable mention goes to my Hasselblad X-Pan at number 5. 

I tend to use rangefinder or rangefinder styled cameras that have point and shoot AF and size (Contax T2 & Konica Hexar) the most. When I want a feature loaded camera I stick to higher end SLR's like the Nikon F100. Whenever I do street photography I almost always have my Leica M6.

The advantage being close to Roberts Camera / Used Photo Pro in Indianapolis is that they have a very active and well stocked "as-is" section. The inventory changes actively and while the cameras and lens have something wrong with them they almost always work. The cost for an "as-is" camera body is typically $20. Therefore, I buy these type of cameras regularly just to test and play with.  These types of cameras were at least 25% of the cameras I used in 2025.

Here are the cameras I used in 2025 and the film count. 

• Nikon F100 = 39
• Contax T2 = 38
• Konica Hexar Silver = 18
• Leica M6 = 14
• Hasselblad X-Pan = 13
• Contax 137 MA Quartz = 8
• Nikon F4 = 8
• Mamiya 6 = 7 (120)
• Nikon N90s = 7
• Canon EOS A2 = 5
• Minox 35ML = 5
• Olympus OM-10 = 5
• Polaroid i-Type = 5 (i-Type)
• Contax G1 = 4
• Canon A-1 = 3
• Fed 2 = 3
• Fed 4M = 3
• Holga 120S = 3 (120)
• Leica CL = 3
• Olympus XA = 3
• Canon TX = 2
• Contax RTS = 2
• Fed 2 Zarya = 2
• Horizon S3 = 2
• Kiev-19 = 2
• Minolta Maxxum 3000i = 2
• Minolta XD-5 = 2
• Nikon FE = 2
• Nikon Nikonos-III = 2
• Olympus OM 2000 = 2
• Olympus Stylus = 2
• Ricoh GR1s = 2
• Yashica 44 = 2 (127)
• Zorki 4K = 2
• Acmel-MX = 1 (Minox film)
• Agfa Isolette = 1 (120)
• Asahi Pentax Spotmatic = 1
• Canon AF 35ML = 1
• Canon VL2 = 1
• Foldex 90 = 1 (120)
• Kiev 4M = 1
• Kodak Brownie Hawkeye = 1 (620)
• Konica Autoflex A3 = 1
• Konica Autoflex T = 1
• Leica AF-C1 = 1
• Lomography Konstructor = 1
• Minolta 110 Zoom = 1 (110)
• Minolta 7000i = 1
• Minolta 9xi = 1
• Minolta X7xi = 1
• Nikon F2 = 1
• Nikon F60 = 1
• Nikon Lite Touch Zoom = 1
• Nikon N50 = 1
• Nikon N70 = 1
• Ricoh KR-5 Super II = 1
• Universal Stere-All = 1
• Vivitar 440 PZ = 1
• Yashica 230AF = 1
• Zenit 122 = 1

Of this list several of the cameras ended up not working or failed. My Ricoh GR1 & Horizon 3 (both cameras that were on my bucket list) and were purchased at market price failed and were returned for full purchase price. I still have to develop the roll of Minox film shot in the Acmel-MX spy camera so I'm not sure if that camera is fully functional. All the other cameras are in good through "work but not the best" shape. 

My latest market priced purchase was my Contax G1. I have put 4 rolls through it since purchased and I think this will definitely get more use in 2026.

Bottomline, film photography remains an active hobby! 

 

Ricoh KR-5 Super II SLR

I purchased a Ricoh KR-5 Super II SLR from Roberts Camera's annual Tent Sale this year. At the tent sale all equipment is purchased "as-is" which means there is no guarantee the equipment works. However, the prices are so low (purchased by volume) it's work the risk. 

I mounted a Pentax f/1.2 50mm lens and added a battery. The camera worked including the light meter. 

Here are a few specs and what I like / dislike about the camera. The Ricoh KR-5 Super II is a fully manual, manual focus SLR using a Pentax K mount lenses. Based on information I read it was considered an "affordable, student camera".

Features:

• Shutter speed from bulb to 1/2000,
• Flash sync speed of 1/125
• Manual ISO between 25-1600
• Manual "split screen" focusing
• Shutter operates without a battery, but the meter uses a standard LR44 / SR44 styled battery
• + o - style light meter
• Shutter release lock 

I tested the KR-5 with a couple of rolls of film. I found the camera is on the small side so somewhat awkward to hold. It's also very light weight and plasticky. However, if you like all manual, light weight cameras with all needed features then this is a camera for you. I consider this camera the plastic cousin to the more robust Pentax K1000.

Here are images from the test rolls of Kentmere 400.

I found with my Ricoh KR-5 Super II that many images are VERY soft. Not sure if this is the lens or the camera (focus slightly off?). However,  it's a nice looking camera that covers all the bases.

Tips For Buying a Used Film Camera

Buying a Used Film Camera: 10 Quick Checks Before You Buy

New to film photography? Learn how to confidently buy a 35mm camera with these 10 simple checks — from batteries and shutters to lens condition and pricing.

You’ve spotted a used film camera at a flea market, camera shop, or garage sale — and you’re wondering, does it work? That’s the right question to ask first.

Film cameras are everywhere these days: thrift stores, antique markets, online auctions, and camera shows. But unless you’re buying from a knowledgeable seller, it’s smart to do a few basic checks before buying. Film cameras are wonderfully mechanical, but they’re also decades old — so a careful look can save you money and disappointment.

I buy film cameras regularly and have a simple, experience-based checklist that helps me quickly decide whether a camera is worth buying. These 10 tips will help you do the same — no tools required.

1. Check the Battery Compartment

Most film cameras use a battery — even if it’s only for the light meter. Open the battery door and look for corrosion, residue, or leaking cells. If you see heavy corrosion or a crusty battery inside, skip it. Cleaning is tricky, and damaged electronics are often beyond repair unless the camera is rare or for display only.

2. Make Sure the Battery Type Is Available

Some older cameras use discontinued mercury cells or uncommon voltages. Stick with models that take readily available types like LR44, SR44, or AA batteries. You’ll save yourself a lot of hassle later.

3. Check the Price

Before buying, search the camera model online — eBay “sold” listings, KEH, or camera forums usually show consistent prices. If the asking price is much higher, don’t overpay. There are plenty of great cameras out there.

4. Know the Film Type

A quick Google search will tell you what film the camera takes. For beginners, 35mm cameras are ideal: film is easy to find at most pharmacies or big-box stores. 120 film (used in medium-format cameras) offers great image quality but is harder to find and costs more. Avoid less common formats like 110, 127, or 620, and steer clear of Advantix (APS) cameras — that film hasn’t been made in years.

5. Test the Film Advance

If the camera has a manual advance lever, try it. If it’s jammed, press the shutter button. If the shutter doesn’t fire, the mechanism may be stuck or broken. Repairs can be expensive, so it’s usually best to move on.

6. Inspect the Shutter and Film Chamber

Open the camera back and check inside — it should be clean and free of rust or residue. For SLRs, advance the film and press the shutter while pointing the camera toward a light source: the shutter curtain should open smoothly, the mirror should lift, and you should see light through the lens. For point-and-shoots, open the back and press the shutter (if the camera has power). If nothing happens, it may have electrical issues.

7. Check the Camera Back

Make sure the door opens and closes securely. Loose hinges or gaps can lead to light leaks, which will fog your film and ruin your photos.

8. Look for Cracks or Damage

Scratches and scuffs are normal and give a camera character. But cracks, bent parts, or open seams can cause light leaks or structural issues. Avoid cameras with major physical damage.

9. Inspect the Lens (for SLRs and Interchangeable-Lens Cameras)

Hold the lens up to a light. A little dust is fine, but look out for mold, haze, or deep scratches. Rotate the focus and zoom rings — they should turn smoothly and quietly. Sticky or gritty movement is a red flag.

10. Test the Electronics

If the camera has a light meter, LCD, or auto-exposure system, check that they work. Ask the seller if a battery is installed so you can test it. If they can’t or won’t provide one, it’s safer to pass.

Final Thoughts

If a camera passes these simple tests and the price feels fair, you’ve likely found a winner. Buying vintage or used cameras always carries a little risk — even the best-looking one might need minor servicing — but these quick checks will help you avoid costly surprises.

Take your time, do your research, and enjoy the hunt. A good film camera can last decades — and once you hear that satisfying click, you’ll understand why so many photographers still shoot film.

My Darkroom

I put together a home DARKROOM. I've been developing & scanning photographic film for years but have not printed any of my photos. After taking a darkroom class earlier this year I felt it was time.

My goals were: 

• Put the darkroom together "on the cheap" 
• No modifications to the space. 

I wanted to keep the total cost (not including chemicals) under $300. This budget combined with no physical modifications meant if I didn't like using a darkroom the amount invested wasn't large and it would be easy to return the space to its original condition.

I didn't want to buy anything new if possible. Repurposed items available at home, items purchased used or cheaply. The only item purchased at full price was the Paterson Darkroom Safelight. The total cost came in just under $250.

First, the location. I have a "spare" bathroom I've used to develop film for several years. The bathroom is split into a sink area and then a separate shower / tub toilet area. The shower / toilet area has a door so it's separated from the sink area. This is the space I used for the darkroom. The space I'm using is about 7'x4'.

Here's what the space looks like & includes:

I put the enlarger on a rolling utility cart that fit nicely under the window and next to some built in shelves. The cart holds is big enough to hold the enlarger, the paper easel & an old iPhone that I'm using as a timer (red light accessibility setting). 

Next to the rolling cart is a storage cabinet (for towels, etc) that is unused. I put a small adjustable height folding table on top of it to hold the chemical trays. 

The safelight is simply propped up securely on a towel rack. 

In the shower / tub there is a clothing rack that has a plastic cover over it. That is the space where I'll hang the prints to dry. Inside the clothing rack is a piece of acrylic plastic and squeegee to wipe water off the paper. On the bottom of the tub under the spout is an unused car oil changing pail. I put legs on one side so when in the shower the curved lip is the lower than the water level so water will run out. This is where I'll wash the developed and fixed paper. 

Finally, I used some black out curtain material from Amazon (aluminized on one side / black on the other) to cover the window. I simply cut it to shape and mounted it with Velcro. I did a light tight check and ended up putting gaffers tape up on several spots. 

After the sun sets with the sink area lights off the darkroom is completely dark. During the day there is light gap under the door so I've made a simple black cloth snake I put under the door. It works. 

Here's a breakdown of the items and costs:

• Enlarger - Omega ColorPrintMaker - Facebook Marketplace = $100
• Paper easel - came with the enlarger
• Paterson Darkroom Safelight - Roberts Camera = $62
• Plastic 30'x20" folding table - Amazon = $30
• Trays & tongs - Roberts Camera "tent sale" = <$5
• Paterson Micro Focus Finder - from a friend = free
• Timer - unused iPhone stopwatch app with red light setting
• Oil changing pail - had at home / repurposed
• Drying rack with plastic over - have been using for film developing
• Plexiglas and squeegee - Lowes = ~$25
• Hanging clips - have had available but not used
• Black out curtain - Amazon = $20
• Enlarger rolling table - had at home / repurposed

I also bought a 250 count of Ilford Multigrade 8x10 paper from Roberts Camera at their tent sale for $40 (it had just past the expiration date). I also have about 3x1/2 assorted boxes of paper left over from my darkroom class. 

So I'm ready to go. I'll check back in after my first test session on any changes needed. Should be fun!

Olympus OM2000 Spot Metering 35mm SLR Camera

I purchased an Olympus OM2000 Spot Metering SLR body from Used Photo Pro in Indianapolis sold in an “as-is” condition. I haven’t used this camera model previously, so I was interested in giving it a try. This copy looked very clean. The camera didn’t have a battery to check the light meter but as in the past even “as-is” condition cameras are typically in reasonable / good working condition. Even if the light meter didn’t work the camera will still operate without a battery. The price was approximately $25. 

The OM2000, built by Cosina, is an all-manual camera (excluding the light meter) that has spot meter option for the light meter. Focus, aperture and speed settings are all manual. 

I mounted a Tamron 28mm f/2.5 lens. The Tamron does not have an Olympus OM mount so I used an Adaptall 2 adapter from my inventory. 

The features of the OM2000 Spot Metering are:

• Lens: Olympus OM bayonet mount,
• Shutter type: Vertical-travel metal focal-plane shutter,
• Shutter speeds: 1 to 1/2000 second + bulb,
• Flash sync speed: 1/125 second,
• Exposure modes:
• Manual exposure only
• Center-weighted metering with “match-LED” display in viewfinder
• Metering system:
• TTL center-weighted metering
• Ability to switch to spot metering
• Manual exposure match-LED indicator
• ISO range from 25 to 3200 (no DX code reading),
• Battery: 2 x LE44,
• Hot shoe (no built-in flash),
• Manual film advance lever,
• Small switch on the film advance lever that can be used for double exposures.

The OM2000 was clearly an entry-level manual SLR camera. Lots of plastic and small in your hand. 

I wanted to see how the camera would perform with street photography.

I ran 2 rolls through the camera recently and here is what I thought about it:

• A very loud shutter slap. Not stealthy at all

• The light meter consists of a + o – LED indicator on the left side of the viewfinder. It’s activated when you half push the shutter release. You adjust speed / aperture (or both) so the green o illuminates. I found it hard to get it settings adjusted accurately for the proper exposure. On most shots I was getting + o or o – (slightly over or under exposed).  In most situations I ended up simply using “sunny 16”. Not sure if this is the sensitivity of the light meter or the meter on this camera was beyond it’s used by date. Either way, I prefer a camera with a light meter vs not having one. On the OM2000 you are in full control of the settings.

• Another “feature” is a small “stop” attached to the film advance lever that sits under the shutter release button when the lever is fully closed. This prevents the shutter from accidentally firing while in a camera bag or if you bump the shutter release. To take a photo you advance the film advance lever slightly to a stop. You can now release the shutter. There were several times when I forgot to do this and when I tried to release the shutter I couldn’t. Just a learning curve issue, but potentially frustrating if you were timing a shot. 

• The wide shutter speed range gives you complete flexibility of using almost all film ISOs in most light conditions.

Bottomline, not my first choice for street photography, but it’s a solid general-purpose, basic manual camera. 

Some photos: 

Nikon N90s 35mm SLR Film Camera

 

I recently purchased a Nikon N90s from Used Photo Pro in Indianapolis, sold in “as-is” condition. UPP has a section in their store dedicated to working film cameras and lenses, but these items come with no warranty. That’s because many of them have one or more issues—something might not work properly, or the gear may show significant cosmetic wear. In exchange for these caveats, prices are fixed and budget-friendly. A camera body typically runs around $25.

The N90s I purchased was fully functional except for one flaw: the top LCD screen was burned out. Fortunately, settings were still visible through the viewfinder, but the lack of a working top LCD display was a definite compromise. However, this body came with the MB-10 vertical battery grip, which made it worth purchasing.

I ran 2–3 rolls through the camera without issue, but I found the missing LCD confirmation annoying—especially when trying to verify or setting up metering modes, non-DX ISO settings, and exposure programs. Because of this, I didn’t put the N90s into my regular shooting rotation.

Then, a few days ago, I spotted another “as-is” N90s body at UPP. Mechanically it looked sound, though it had heavy cosmetic wear. The big plus? The LCD screen worked! I bought it and swapped over the MB-10 grip from the earlier body.

I took the newer N90s out for a street photography and really enjoyed the experience and using the N90s. It’s fast, comfortable in the hand, and loaded with features making it a really nice camera to use. Some key specs include:

·       Lens mount: Nikon F-mount

·       Autofocus: Fast and accurate with single, continuous, and manual modes

·       Shutter speeds: Bulb, 30 seconds up to 1/8000

·       Flash sync: Up to 1/250 sec—ideal for studio strobes and consistent with many digital studio setups

·       Motor drive: Built-in, with film advance up to 4 FPS

·       Exposure modes: Program (P), Shutter priority (S), Aperture priority (A), Manual (M)

·       Metering: Matrix, center-weighted, and spot

·       Viewfinder: Bright and easy to work with

·       Custom settings: 17 user-configurable functions

·       Power: 4 AA batteries

The Nikon N90s was produced in Japan from 1994 to 2001. At the time, it was considered Nikon’s top-tier enthusiast camera—sitting just below the professional-level Nikon F4. It was eventually succeeded by the more advanced Nikon F100.

Here are photos taken with my Nikon N90s using Ilford HP5+ and Kentmere 400:

Ilford Kentmere 400 developed with Kodak D-76 1+1

Ilford HP5+ developed with Kodak D-76 1+1