Olympus OM2000 Spot Metering 35mm SLR Camera

I purchased an Olympus OM2000 Spot Metering SLR body from Used Photo Pro in Indianapolis sold in an “as-is” condition. I haven’t used this camera model previously, so I was interested in giving it a try. This copy looked very clean. The camera didn’t have a battery to check the light meter but as in the past even “as-is” condition cameras are typically in reasonable / good working condition. Even if the light meter didn’t work the camera will still operate without a battery. The price was approximately $25. 

The OM2000, built by Cosina, is an all-manual camera (excluding the light meter) that has spot meter option for the light meter. Focus, aperture and speed settings are all manual. 

I mounted a Tamron 28mm f/2.5 lens. The Tamron does not have an Olympus OM mount so I used an Adaptall 2 adapter from my inventory. 

The features of the OM2000 Spot Metering are:

• Lens: Olympus OM bayonet mount,
• Shutter type: Vertical-travel metal focal-plane shutter,
• Shutter speeds: 1 to 1/2000 second + bulb,
• Flash sync speed: 1/125 second,
• Exposure modes:
• Manual exposure only
• Center-weighted metering with “match-LED” display in viewfinder
• Metering system:
• TTL center-weighted metering
• Ability to switch to spot metering
• Manual exposure match-LED indicator
• ISO range from 25 to 3200 (no DX code reading),
• Battery: 2 x LE44,
• Hot shoe (no built-in flash),
• Manual film advance lever,
• Small switch on the film advance lever that can be used for double exposures.

The OM2000 was clearly an entry-level manual SLR camera. Lots of plastic and small in your hand. 

I wanted to see how the camera would perform with street photography.

I ran 2 rolls through the camera recently and here is what I thought about it:

• A very loud shutter slap. Not stealthy at all

• The light meter consists of a + o – LED indicator on the left side of the viewfinder. It’s activated when you half push the shutter release. You adjust speed / aperture (or both) so the green o illuminates. I found it hard to get it settings adjusted accurately for the proper exposure. On most shots I was getting + o or o – (slightly over or under exposed).  In most situations I ended up simply using “sunny 16”. Not sure if this is the sensitivity of the light meter or the meter on this camera was beyond it’s used by date. Either way, I prefer a camera with a light meter vs not having one. On the OM2000 you are in full control of the settings.

• Another “feature” is a small “stop” attached to the film advance lever that sits under the shutter release button when the lever is fully closed. This prevents the shutter from accidentally firing while in a camera bag or if you bump the shutter release. To take a photo you advance the film advance lever slightly to a stop. You can now release the shutter. There were several times when I forgot to do this and when I tried to release the shutter I couldn’t. Just a learning curve issue, but potentially frustrating if you were timing a shot. 

• The wide shutter speed range gives you complete flexibility of using almost all film ISOs in most light conditions.

Bottomline, not my first choice for street photography, but it’s a solid general-purpose, basic manual camera. 

Some photos: 

Nikon N90s 35mm SLR Film Camera

 

I recently purchased a Nikon N90s from Used Photo Pro in Indianapolis, sold in “as-is” condition. UPP has a section in their store dedicated to working film cameras and lenses, but these items come with no warranty. That’s because many of them have one or more issues—something might not work properly, or the gear may show significant cosmetic wear. In exchange for these caveats, prices are fixed and budget-friendly. A camera body typically runs around $25.

The N90s I purchased was fully functional except for one flaw: the top LCD screen was burned out. Fortunately, settings were still visible through the viewfinder, but the lack of a working top LCD display was a definite compromise. However, this body came with the MB-10 vertical battery grip, which made it worth purchasing.

I ran 2–3 rolls through the camera without issue, but I found the missing LCD confirmation annoying—especially when trying to verify or setting up metering modes, non-DX ISO settings, and exposure programs. Because of this, I didn’t put the N90s into my regular shooting rotation.

Then, a few days ago, I spotted another “as-is” N90s body at UPP. Mechanically it looked sound, though it had heavy cosmetic wear. The big plus? The LCD screen worked! I bought it and swapped over the MB-10 grip from the earlier body.

I took the newer N90s out for a street photography and really enjoyed the experience and using the N90s. It’s fast, comfortable in the hand, and loaded with features making it a really nice camera to use. Some key specs include:

·       Lens mount: Nikon F-mount

·       Autofocus: Fast and accurate with single, continuous, and manual modes

·       Shutter speeds: Bulb, 30 seconds up to 1/8000

·       Flash sync: Up to 1/250 sec—ideal for studio strobes and consistent with many digital studio setups

·       Motor drive: Built-in, with film advance up to 4 FPS

·       Exposure modes: Program (P), Shutter priority (S), Aperture priority (A), Manual (M)

·       Metering: Matrix, center-weighted, and spot

·       Viewfinder: Bright and easy to work with

·       Custom settings: 17 user-configurable functions

·       Power: 4 AA batteries

The Nikon N90s was produced in Japan from 1994 to 2001. At the time, it was considered Nikon’s top-tier enthusiast camera—sitting just below the professional-level Nikon F4. It was eventually succeeded by the more advanced Nikon F100.

Here are photos taken with my Nikon N90s using Ilford HP5+ and Kentmere 400:

Ilford Kentmere 400 developed with Kodak D-76 1+1

Ilford HP5+ developed with Kodak D-76 1+1

Nikon Lite Touch Zoom AF

The Nikon Lite Touch Zoom is a pocketable, good looking zoom lens point & shoot with several nice features and a few drawbacks. I've had the Lite Touch for several years and have taken it out often. The image quality is good, the lens is sharp and the zoom provides flexibility. 

Based on my experience here are the camera's advantages / nice features and drawbacks.

Advantages:

• Sharp zoom lens - 35-70mm f/3.5-6.5 zoom
• Panorama and normal mode
• Adequate flash with multiple modes
• Zoom lens only extends 1-1/4"
• Readily available CR123A battery
• Quick focus
• DX coding (ISO 100 - 1000)

Disadvantages:

• Very small viewfinder
• All buttons are small, rubberized and surprisingly hard to push. The shutter release button (at least on my camera) has to be pushed quite hard to activate.
• No lens cap or cover
• Unable to manually set ISO
• Zoom lens is "stopless" (doesn't stop at 35, 50, etc.). It can be stopped anywhere between 35 thru 70mm. However, except at 35mm or 70mm you don't know what the zoom is set at.

One weird feature of the camera is that the film is loaded "backwards". Looking at the back the film door opens R to L. The film is also loaded "upside down" compared to most cameras. 

Overall, a nice camera for everyday snapshots, street photography or vacation / traveling. Here are a few shots using a roll of Ultrafine Warehouse Finesse 400 developed with Kodak D-76.

  

Status of Film Photography – Why You Should Consider Film

I recently gave a presentation at a local camera club. The club is primarily digital focus, but they asked me to give an update on the film photography genre and why a digital photographer might consider film photography. Here's an overview of the presentation.

Why you should try film again or give it a try?

• New films to try
• Harman Phoenix 200
• CineStill 400D
• CineStill 800T
• Kodak Ektachrome (relaunched)
• Film Ferrania Orto 50
• Wolfen NC500
• Kodak Gold 200 – 120
• Santa Gold
• Polaroid 600 & iType
• Film Photography Project repackaged films
• LuckyPan SHD400
• Various Vision3 repackaged films
• Others

• Trending / hot on social media
• Heavily impacted by young social media influencers
• Uses YouTube, TikTok, BlueSky & Threads
• Not afraid to edit
• OK to fail / just snapshots
• No rules
• Share easily online
• Boutique physical and online stores (just a few) that are active on social media promoting the genre & photographers.
• Bellows
• Film Photography Project
• Brooklyn Film Camera
• Lomography
• Roberts Camera & Used Photo Pro
• KEH Camera

• Film photography compliments your cell phone / digital photography

• Allows you to slow down & get back to basics

• A new source of inspiration and if you are burned out

• New life to old equipment

• Lots of cool cameras at reasonable or low prices

Q&A about the current status of film photography 

• Question - Are film cameras still available / where can I get one?
• Answer - YES
• Family & friend's stash (cameras they own that are not being used)
• Online & physical stores (both new and used)
• KEH
• eBay (be careful as descriptions are often inaccurate / misleading & prices may not reflect the market)
• New cameras are available (Pentax 17, Rollei 35, Leica M6, disposable point & shoots, etc.)

• Question - Is film still being produced and available?
• Answer - YES
• Color, B&W, instant and slide
• 35mm, 120, Polaroid, Instax, large format & bulk
• Vision3 motion picture film in bulk and repackaged

• Question - Where to buy film?
• Answer - Many places
• Mass market stores like Walmart, Meijers, Target, etc.
• Fujifilm & Kodak almost exclusively
• Roberts Camera / Used Photo Pro
• Freestyle Photo
• Ultrafine Warehouse
• B&H Photo
• Adorama

• Question - Can I still get film developed? Where?
• Answer - YES both labs and at home
• Developing chemicals are readily available and affordable
• Its normally cheaper to develop film at home
• Labs (to name a few)
• Roberts Camera
• CVS / Meijers / WalMart
• They send it to a 3rd party lab and it's typically the most expensive option
• The Darkroom
• Boutique Film Lab
• Citizen Photo
• NJ Film Lab
• Dark Slide Film Lab
• Boutique Film Lab
• Art centers / public due it yourself photography labs

• Question - Is film photography expensive?
• Answer - it's all relative but YES, relative to digital (after the camera is purchased) film is more expensive. A roll of film costs $6-25 before tax and developing $10-15 per roll.

• Question - How do I lower the cost of film photography?
• Answer - many options
• Home develop your negatives
• Bulk roll film
• Use less expensive cameras - there are MANY options
• Less expensive films
• Arista EDU, Harman, Fomapan, Vision3, Ultrafine, etc.

• Question - Is film or digital better quality?
• Answer - eye of the beholder, but overall digital is better and more flexible

My Workflow

• First, I always carry a CAR camera
• Normally, a point & shoot

• Select a shoot theme, project or location for each non-casual photoshoot
• Primarily street photography
• Recent locations: Indianapolis, Colorado (4 times), Chicago (3 times), Cincinnati, Louisville, Columbus, OH & NYC
• Past projects:
• "Small town Indiana"
• Vision3 remjet removal and testing different types of Vision3 types
• Used Photo Pro camera tests
• Try new films
• Expired film tests

• Select a camera and film

• Do the photoshoot

• Update film / photoshoot worksheet

• Develop & scan

• Post on social media or write blog post

During the meeting which is primarily attended by photographers with previous experience with film photography most have kept one or two of their film cameras. However, only one of about 20 members at the meeting still routinely shots film. I'm not sure if anyone has plans to go out and try film in 2025 but if so they now have information bringing them up to speed.

Yashica Electro 35 GSN Battery Options

The Yashica Electro 35 GSN and the MG-1 are fine rangefinder cameras. If you've wanted a Leica M version rangefinder but don't want the high price then you can consider the Electro 35 or MG-1.   

The big problem with both cameras is the battery which is no longer available. The original battery was the mercury 5.6V Mallory TR164 or Eveready E164

Although both cameras work without a battery you really get the value of Auto mode, the light meter and shutter speeds with a battery. As such, you have 3 options. They are:

• A 6 volt similar sized PX32 styled alkaline battery
• Stack a CR123A / LR44 battery for 4.5V
• Use an adapter with 4 x LR44 batteries for 6V

I've tested all 3 versions, and all 3 work. The light meter compensates voltage from approximately 4.5 - 6.4V. Therefore, all 3 options work without negatively impacting exposure.  

Here is how you stack a CR123A / LR44

Both batteries are readily available and this is a simple solution. I shot a roll with this battery setup and it worked fine.

The test battery setup was using an inexpensive adapter that I purchased on Amazon with 4 x LR44 batteries for a total of 6V.

Amazon PX32 adapter

4 x LR44 batteries

4 x LR 44 batteries stacked in the adapter

+ end pointing out

Battery check light works

Here are some photos from both battery setups:

CR123A / LR44 combo with Ilford HP5+:

Battery adapter with 4 x LR44 batteries with Fujifilm 400:

Either option that you use provides good results for your Yashica Electro 35 GSN or Yashica MG-1