Tuesday, July 21, 2026

How To Remove Remjet: An Update

Eastman Kodak’s Vision3 color motion-picture films can also be used for still photography. The biggest difference between traditional color-negative film and most Vision3 film is the remjet backing.

Rem-jet is a black, opaque layer applied to the back of the film. It helps prevent halation, protects the film from scratches, and reduces static electricity as the film moves through a motion-picture camera. Unlike the anti-halation layers used on conventional still film, remjet must be removed during processing.

If you develop your own film, there are two practical ways to deal with it:

  • Remove it manually after processing
  • Use a prebath before development

I will explain both methods below.

Bulk rolled Vision3 35mm film

Why Photographers Use Vision3 Film

Vision3 has frequently been repackaged into standard 35mm cartridges for still photographers. Historically, there were two primary reasons for doing this:

  1. Repackaged motion-picture film was often less expensive than conventional color-negative film.
  2. It remained available during periods when traditional color film was difficult to find.

The color-film market has changed considerably during the past few years, however, and those changes are affecting the availability and appeal of repackaged Vision3 film.

Among the changes:

  • Kodak has restricted direct sales of bulk Vision3 film, making it more difficult for small repackagers and individual photographers to purchase large rolls for still-photography use. I previously purchased 400 to 1,000 foot rolls myself, but that has become much more difficult.
  • Color-film production and supply chains have improved. Conventional color-negative film is more readily available, and several products are now priced competitively with repackaged Vision3.
  • Kodak has introduced a new Vision3 structure that replaces the traditional remjet backing with an anti-halation undercoat, or AHU. This layer performs the anti-halation function without requiring the traditional remjet removal stage during processing.

As the AHU versions gradually replace the older products, Vision3 film with remjet will likely become less common. However, it remains available for now, both as newly packaged film and in photographers’ existing inventories.

A Few Things to Know Before Using Vision3

If you currently own Vision3 film with remjet—or are considering buying some—keep the following points in mind:

  • ECN-2 is the intended process. It produces the color, contrast, and tonal characteristics Kodak designed the film to deliver.
  • C-41 processing is also possible. Many home processors use C-41 chemistry and obtain good results, although the color and contrast may differ somewhat from film processed in ECN-2.
  • Some repackagers remove the remjet before selling the film. Unless the seller specifically says that it has been removed, assume the film still has it.
  • Not every commercial laboratory accepts remjet film. Use only a lab that specifically states that it processes ECN-2 or remjet-backed film. Rem-jet can contaminate equipment and chemistry intended for conventional C-41 film.
  • AHU versions do not require remjet removal. Confirm exactly which version you have before sending it to a laboratory.

Whether you process the film at home or use a commercial laboratory, traditional Vision3 film must have its remjet backing removed as part of the processing workflow.

Two Ways to Remove Remjet at Home

The two methods I use are:

  • The manual “rub-off” method
  • The prebath method

Both work, although I prefer the prebath method when I am processing several rolls.

Method One: Manually Removing the Remjet

In my opinion, this is the easiest and least expensive method because it requires no additional chemistry.

After the film has been developed, fixed, and thoroughly rinsed—but before the final rinse—soak it in warm water for about one minute. Water in the general range of 95°F to 102°F works well for me.

Remove the film from the developing tank and, while warm water runs over it, gently rub the rem-jet from the base side of the film. This is the shiny side, opposite the duller emulsion side.

You can use:

  • A gloved thumb or finger
  • A clean, soft microfiber cloth

The softened black backing should wipe away relatively easily. It can be messy, so I recommend wearing disposable nitrile gloves and working over a sink that can be cleaned afterward.

I normally wipe the film twice to make sure all the backing has been removed. I also hold the film up to a light and examine both sides. Any remaining remjet usually appears as black streaks, patches, or specks.

Once it is clean, give the film its normal final rinse and hang it to dry.

Negatives after and before the remjet is removed

A Word of Caution

Be careful not to rub the emulsion side. Wet emulsion is delicate and can be permanently scratched.

I have accidentally scratched negatives while using this method, so use very light pressure and avoid repeatedly handling areas that are already clean.

Method Two: Using a Prebath

A prebath softens the rem-jet before development so that most of it can be removed through agitation and rinsing.

A rem-jet prebath may be:

  1. Included with an ECN-2 processing kit
  2. Purchased separately
  3. Mixed at home from a published formula

I mix my own prebath based on a Kodak formula, and the required chemicals have been relatively easy to obtain.



The DIY Prebath I use

Always follow the directions supplied with your particular prebath. The general procedure is:

  1. Load the undeveloped film into the developing tank.
  2. Add the prebath.
  3. Agitate for the specified time.
  4. Pour out the prebath.
  5. Add warm water and agitate thoroughly.
  6. Pour out the rinse water containing the loosened rem-jet.
  7. Repeat the rinse if necessary.
  8. Continue processing in either ECN-2 or C-41 chemistry.

The discarded water will usually be gray or black because it contains the loosened backing.

A comparison - film on L has remjet and film on R doesn't

Some prebath solutions can be reused, although their useful life depends on the formula, the number of rolls processed, and the manufacturer’s instructions.

Be aware that some home ECN-2 kits do not include a rem-jet prebath. In that case, you will need to purchase one separately, make your own, or remove the backing manually after processing.

I have had very good results with my homemade prebath. Even so, I inspect every roll before the final rinse. If I see any remaining residue, I gently wipe the base side with a clean microfiber cloth while the film is still wet.

Final Thoughts

I regularly use rem-jet-backed motion-picture film because I like its look, the range of film speeds available, and the distinctive results produced by its daylight- and tungsten-balanced versions.

The tungsten stocks can be especially interesting when used creatively under daylight or mixed lighting, although they may produce a noticeable blue color cast unless corrected with filtration, scanning, or editing.

Removing rem-jet adds an extra step to development, but it is not especially difficult once you become familiar with the process. Do not let the backing discourage you from experimenting with Vision3 film. With a little preparation and careful handling, it can produce excellent still photographs.

Tuesday, July 14, 2026

Pentax 17 - First Impression


Every once in a while, a camera comes along that reminds me why film photography continues to attract new photographers while keeping longtime shooters interested. The Pentax 17 is one of those cameras.

A friend recently loaned me a Pentax 17, and after putting a couple of rolls through it, I came away with a generally positive impression.

First Impressions

The first thing I noticed was just how enjoyable the camera is to carry. It’s remarkably lightweight and compact enough to slip into a pocket, purse, or backpack. That helps it compete with the cellphone, which has the obvious advantage of almost always being with you.

The Pentax 17 is also extremely quiet. Its shutter produces a soft, unobtrusive sound that makes the camera comfortable to use in museums, restaurants, for street photography, or anywhere else you don’t want to call attention to yourself. The camera even includes a dedicated food-photography zone setting, reflecting the way many people now photograph and share their daily experiences.

The camera has a fixed 25mm f/3.5 lens, which gives a field of view roughly comparable to a 37mm lens on full-frame 35mm. That is consistent with many compact point-and-shoot film cameras I’ve used. Modern lens design has obvious advantages, and the Pentax produced negatives with good sharpness and pleasing contrast.

It’s a simple detail, but I liked the film reminder holder on the back. I also appreciated the ISO range of 50 to 3200, which covers nearly all commonly available films. The dial has marked settings for ISO 50, 100, 200, 800, and 3200, along with intermediate settings for 125, 160, 400, and 1600. The ISO dial also has a locking mechanism, which is a thoughtful feature.

I was surprised by how much I liked the zone-focusing system compared with manual focus or autofocus. During my test, I used the mountain setting most often. I missed focus on only one or two images, and those were the result of my own errors rather than the camera.

Kodak Aerocolor 100

Kodak Aerocolor 100

A Familiar Experience with a Modern Twist

Although the Pentax 17 is a new camera, it doesn’t try to imitate a modern digital camera. Instead, it embraces the slower, more deliberate pace that many of us enjoy about film photography.

If you’ve used classic half-frame cameras such as the Olympus PEN series or Canon Demi models, much of the shooting experience will feel familiar. At the same time, the Pentax benefits from modern manufacturing, a dependable exposure system, and a newly designed lens.

For photographers discovering half-frame for the first time, the format offers several advantages. First, it effectively doubles the number of exposures on a roll of film, reducing the cost per image for both film and processing.

Second, the default half-frame image is vertical, which feels familiar to anyone accustomed to viewing photographs on a phone or social media. Turn the camera vertically, however, and it produces a horizontal composition closer to the traditional 35mm format.

What I Didn’t Like

My initial impression also identified several features that I think could be improved.

The first issue is the maximum shutter speed of only 1/350 second. That can be limiting in bright sunlight, particularly with faster film or when the camera selects a wider aperture than desired. The camera provides exposure compensation from –2 to +2 stops, but that does not eliminate the underlying shutter-speed limitation.

Since most of my photography is outdoors, including street and landscape photography, I would generally pair the Pentax 17 with ISO 100 or 200 film.

The mode dial and zone-focus ring both felt looser than I expected. Although each has click stops, both were easy to move inadvertently. I found myself regularly checking the settings to confirm that nothing had changed, particularly after pulling the camera from a pocket or camera bag. A lock on at least the mode dial would be a welcome improvement.

The film advance lever also left me wondering about long-term durability. It functioned properly throughout my time with the camera, but compared with many classic mechanical cameras, it felt somewhat delicate. Time will ultimately tell whether that concern is justified.

Finally, the shutter release seemed to have a very slight lag in all modes and very little travel. This wasn’t an issue for most of my photographs, but there were a few occasions when the shutter did not seem to react immediately.

Is the Price Fair?

One criticism I’ve seen online concerns the camera’s price.

Personally, I think Pentax priced it reasonably. This is a newly designed and manufactured film camera that, overall, feels well built. Its image quality is substantially better than that of readily available disposable cameras, and it offers nearly all the features a casual photographer would need.

More importantly, buying a new camera means getting a warranty, modern electronics, available service and support, and the confidence that everything should work as intended. That is worth something.

If we want companies to continue investing in new film cameras, we also have to recognize that they cannot be priced like used equipment manufactured fifty years ago.

Final Thoughts

After spending a couple of rolls with the Pentax 17, my overall impression is quite positive.

It is lightweight, compact, quiet, and equipped with a very good lens. More importantly, it is simply enjoyable to use.

Would I change a few details? Certainly. I would like firmer controls and a more substantial-feeling film advance lever. Those refinements would make an already good camera feel even better.

The Pentax 17 isn’t trying to replace anyone’s favorite vintage camera, nor should it. Instead, it offers something increasingly rare: a thoughtfully designed, newly manufactured film camera that encourages people to slow down and enjoy the process of making photographs.

For me, that is a welcome addition to today’s film-photography landscape.

Here are a few examples of images I took during my test.

Kodak Aerocolor 100

Kodak Aerocolor 100

Kodak Aerocolor 100

Kodak Aerocolor 100

Kodak Aerocolor 100

Kodak Aerocolor 100

Kodak Gold 200

Kodak Gold 200

Kodak Gold 200

Kodak Gold 200

Kodak Gold 200

Kodak Gold 200


















Monday, June 1, 2026

Widelux F7


The Widelux F7 is currently my new favorite camera. I purchased it April 2026 for $1,865 from Used Photo Pro / Roberts Camera located in Indianapolis. It's in excellent condition. The only issue is a missing shutter release button collar.

The Widelux is a unique 35mm panorama camera. The unique feature is a moving swing 26mm lens. The lens sweeps across the film plane during the exposure.  

A few features:

  • Ultra-wide field of view up to approximately 140 degrees horizontal.
  • 3 shutter speeds: 1/15, 1/125 & 1/250.
  • Aperture settings of f/2.8, 4, 5.6, 8 & 11. However, the aperture can be set anywhere between f/2.8 - f/11 (i.e. f/9).
  • Negative size of 24x59mm.
  • Uses normal 35mm film.
  • Fully manual - no battery required.
  • Fixed focus from 5-6' to infinity. The Widelux isn't useful for closeup.
  • Surprisingly compact (This past weekend I carried it in my shorts pocket).
  • Top plate bubble level.
  • Very clear viewfinder.
  • Unique image rendering.
    • Creates images with distinctive curved "immersive" perspective
    • Moving subjects can appear stretched, compressed or distorted for creative effects.
Here is how the swing lens works at 1/15 & 1/250:



The downsides in my experience with the Widelux are:
  • No light meter. An external meter or modified sunny 16 is required.
  • On sunny / overcast days (i.e. street photography) low ISO film is often needed (I primarily use 50-100 ISO film).
  • Loading the Widelux has a learning curve.  
  • You only get 20 images on a 36 exposure roll.
  • Rewinding the film can be rough on your thumb / fingers. The rewind knob has a bit of resistance & very deep, somewhat sharp ridges. 
  • The swing lens is mechanically complex requiring periodic maintenance to prevent uneven exposure ("banding"). I haven't run into this yet, but it was an issue with a Widelux I previously borrowed.  
  • In my experience having a level camera is important unless you are looking for a specific creative look.
  • Because the field of view is so wide you need to hold the camera in a unique way to avoid photographing your fingers.
  • These are NOT inexpensive cameras. No signs of price decreasing anytime soon.
Top plate & back of the camera showing clean lines and function layout:


I'm vert happy a Widelux became available and that I was able to purchase it. Here are some recent images:

Ilford PanF Plus 50

Ilford PanF Plus 50

Ilford PanF Plus 50

Ilford PanF Plus 50
Ilford PanF Plus 50

Ilford PanF Plus 50

Ilford PanF Plus 50

Kodak Ektar 100

Kodak Ektar 100

Leica Monopan 50

Leica Monopan 50

Leica Monopan 50





Tuesday, May 26, 2026

Canon Pellix 35mm SLR Camera

I purchased a Canon Pellix from Used Photo Pro in Indianapolis in their "as-is" section for approximately $25. This is a unique SLR for the time because it has a semi-transparent mirror (fixed pellicle mirror) vs the traditional SLR mirror. The camera was introduced in 1965 and only produced through 1966 replaced by the Pellix QL (Quick Load) which was produced through 1970.

The camera was equipped with a TTL CdS light meter positioned behind the mirror. With a fixed translucent mirror there is no mirror movement which prevented viewfinder blackout when shooting (not a big issue honestly) and reduced vibration (good for slow shutter speeds / long exposures). No "mirror slap". However, the viewfinder is dimmer since the light through the lens is split. I personally didn't notice this as an issue in my shooting. 

Pellix without a lens showing the semi-transparent mirror


A few features:
  • Completely manual camera with a light meter.
  • Shutter speed from B + 1s to 1/1000.
  • Canon FL lens mount. This type of lens readily available, very bright and affordable in many focal lengths.
  • A dial on top of the camera that activates the viewfinder blind. This can be used for long exposures (The only camera I own that has this feature. I don't thing I'll ever use it, but it's still cool.).
  • Accessory cold shoe.
  • Match - needle light meter exposure display (you adjust speed or aperture until the needle rests inside the small circle).
  • Shutter button lock.
  • Easy to use mechanical self timer.
  • Cloth shutter curtain.
Some issues:
  • The ISO/Din numbers are VERY small and red. ISO is set on the shutter speed dial visible in 2 very small openings. The ISO numbers are VERY hard to read in my experience.
  • Max ISO when using the light meter only goes up to 800. Any faster film will need to be used without a meter.
  • No hot shoe.
  • Takes a 1.35V PX625 style battery which are available but NOT readily common. HOWEVER, the Canon Pellix operates without a battery. You just won't be able to use the light meter.
Top of camera, viewfinder curtain dial below the film rewind knob

Viewfinder in normal / open setting


Viewfinder closed

I've should a few rolls of Eastman Vision3 250D in both 200 & 250 ISO through my Pellix. Here are examples:










Overall, I think this is a well build, sturdy basic Canon FL mount SLR with basic features. I'm glad I have it in my collection HOWEVER, there are other FL mount Canon's that I prefer.