A Cool Misfire

I was photographing an editorial fashion shoot last month for a fashion magazine last month.  For giggles, and hey, why not, I shot a roll of 35mm film between look changes for my model.  I was shooting a Canon EOS Elan II with a roll of 100 TMax with a Canon f/2.8 40mm pancake lens.

Because I was shooting in studio I simply used an Elinchrom SkyPort trigger to fire my Elinchrom studio lights.  I metered my lights & set them to get an f/9 aperture with the 100 ASA.  My speed was set at approximately 1/160 of a second in manual mode.  More on this later.

Well on the shot above I actually think is pretty cool.  What's strange is that it looks like a double exposure, but it's actually motion blur before the strobe fired.  Not sure if the strobe fired late, or I bumped the speed way down and the strobe misfired.  Not 100% sure and the rest of the roll came out tack sharp.  

Next time I do a test shoot and the model has maybe 15-30 minutes to kill I might try to replace the effect.  

Anyway I misread the maximum sync speed for the Canon.  It's closer to 1/125 versus 1/160.  As a result on quite a few of the photos I got the dreaded curtain closing black band effect.  I'll SLOW it down next time.

Here's what happens.  

Loading a Yashica MAT-124G

I went out on Saturday to do a bit of street photography while my wife had a business meeting.  Yes, I know, I have an executive finance day job and even I DON'T have to take Saturday meetings.  So, while she was working I was doing my photography thing.

Decided to do a stop action video with my iPhone of loading my Yashica MAT-124G TLR.  I ran 2 rolls through it.  Super fun.

Nikon N8008 And A Fashion Shoot

I did an editorial photoshoot for a fashion magazine recently.  During the photoshoot I decided to shoot a roll of 35mm film with my Nikon N8008 (F-801 outside of the USA) mounted with a Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 lens between looks.  BTW, the Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 is an awesome manual lens I got from my Dad’s estate, but is still made…and pricey.

The Nikon N8008 is a cool camera that is super simple to use.  It can be set from full manual all the way through full automatic.  This is a perfect camera for beginners who want a film SLR and want full functionality.  A benefit is that they can be found online for less than $50 with lens.  On a Nikon film SLR timeline on Wikipedia under “Nikon SLR cameras” lists it as a late 80’s “high-end” camera. 

I don’t need to go into the specs for the camera because manuals, videos and reviews are readily available online.  Here are a couple:

• Technical specs
• Full manual 

I shot the N8008 in manual mode, aperture priority and full automatic.  In manual mode I set it just like I do my digital camera.  I used an Elinchrom Skyport trigger and metered my studio lights to f/9 and the film 400 ASA.  Next, I shot a few shots in full daylight in aperture priority and finally several shots outside in full automatic.  Bottomline, all worked perfectly and the camera is easy to set & shoot.  I didn’t use an automatic setting for this shoot, but I have previously and it works super.

Oh yes, one other thing I did on this roll of Fujifilm Superia X-TRA 400, I developed it myself using a C-41 chemistry kit from the Film Photography Podcast store.  This was my first developing attempt and I’m sure this impacted the quality of the images.  Also my scanner isn’t quite up to contemporary standards…so there’s that.

So if you want a solid film SLR that can be used in all modes and easy to use, then take a look at a Nikon N8008. 

A few shots from the shoot.

Film Camera Buying - Caveat Emptor

Looking to buy a film camera are you?  Want to pick up something groovy on the cheap?  You’re at a flea market, antique store or your local Goodwill and you spot one...it’s right there telling you “buy me, buy me”?

OK, hold on.  It’s easy to find film cameras on the cheap in places like this. Chances are the person selling it has zero knowledge of the camera.  There are the rare exceptions, but this is the classic caveat emptor.  Seriously, take a breath and give it a good going over first.

Film photography is taking off again for many reasons.  Therefore, lots of sellers know this and will jack you on prices and quality.  Or, they have no clue what they have so they price it over the top. Therefore, here are a few tips that I use personally when I shop for film cameras.

I’m a digital shooter professionally, but I still shoot film for giggles.  No, I’m not talking about occasionally. I’ve got a film jones so I’m shooting film all the time.  I’m buying film cameras regularly and have been screwed more than a few times with my purchases.  Thought I would share some of my experiences.  

First, I’m not talking about cameras you buy online or at a high end camera store or about Polaroid cameras.  I’ll talk about those in a different post.  I’m talking about film cameras you can actually touch and feel & where the seller is not a professional camera store. Secondly, I’m not talking to you film photographers that have experience with film types and developing.  You don’t need my advice. OK here goes:

• Rule # 1 in my book - check the battery compartment.  Most cameras have a battery.  The compartment is easy to find and open.  If there is more than a tiny amount of corrosion in the battery compartment don’t buy it.  Most film cameras - especially newer one require a battery to fully operate.  If the compartment has lots of corrosion the camera is toast or will require cleaning and testing.  Unless it’s a super rare camera or for display only then don’t buy it.
• Check the price.  Most film cameras are sold online, and it’s easy to check current prices.  I’ve found the online market to be fairly good at pricing cameras.  If you find a camera that is out of the ballpark on price, then don’t bother.  There is no need to overpay.  
• Determine the film type used in the camera.  You can check this with a simple Google search or through experience.  My recommendation is to stick with 35mm film cameras. If you have experience you can also go with 120 film cameras.  Why?, because 35mm film is still made and readily available.  120 styled film is also still made and available, but you need to go to a specialty or a camera store to buy it.  Unless you have experience I’d recommend you stay away from 110, 127 & 620 film cameras.  The only reason I’m saying this is because of the availability of film and the availability of post processing.  Also, I’d avoid Advantix film.
• If the camera has a film advance level, give it a try.  This is for an SLR versus a point and shoot.  If it doesn’t advance or is jammed, push the shutter release button.  If the shutter doesn’t fire then the film advance is probably gummed up or jammed.  Wiggle it around and try the shutter release button again.  If “no joy” then put it back.
• Open the back and look at the interior & film curtain.  If it’s clean and the shutter curtain (if there is one) is in good shape then this is a good sign.  If it’s an SLR hold the camera up to the light, crank the film advance lever and push the shutter release.  The curtain should open, the mirror slide up and you should see the lens opening.  These are all good signs for an SLR.  If it’s a point and shoot, open the back and press the shutter release button.  If there is a battery in the camera or if it’s a very basic point and shoot the shutter should open.  If not, this could be a problem.
• When you open the back check that it opens and closes completely and smoothly.  If not you may have light leaks.
• Give the camera a going over looking for cracks / significant damage.  It’s OK if there are scuffs and scratches.  That’s normal for older, well used camera.  It won't’ impact the quality.  However cracks / seams that are open may let light in and ruin your film.  If your camera has significant signs of wear and tear and cracks then it’s probably been abused and I avoid them.
• If you are getting an SLR with a removable lens then give the lens a good look.  Is it clean?  Is there minimal mold / scratches on the lens?  If it’s clean then you should be good.  Does the focus or zoom ring move smoothly. If the lens is damaged, things don’t move smoothly, the shutter blades gummed or has significant mold inside the glass then you probably want to avoid it.  
• If you are at an antique store tell the owner than you plan to use the camera versus simply displaying it.  Ask them if they have a return policy if you find the camera doesn’t work.  

If the camera you are looking at passes these basic tests then give it a go.  Don’t fret if you get a dud.  It happens.  Especially with newer cameras that rely more on electronics you really can’t test in field.  Also, if it’s super cheap then what do you have to lose?  I buy cameras from Goodwill regularly and give them a basic field check and they look OK.  Even then I’ll come home and put in a battery only to find it’s a DOA.  Oh well, it happens.

So go out there and get yourself a film camera and add it to your digital arsenal.  You may totally dig it.

Mamiya M645 - A Medium Format Beauty

The next camera up to shoot is my medium format, Mamiya M645 with an 80mm Macro lens.  I've had this camera for about 5 years, but haven't used it much.  Mainly because ... well ... not sure why.  Probably because getting 120 film developed is a bit of a bother unless I soup it myself.  That's a shame because this camera is a work of art.  It reminds me of a piece of American Iron / Muscle Car feel.  Heavy and powerful.

I took the Mamiya out this evening with a 120 roll of Ilford HP4 Plus B&W.  The film is rated at ASA 400.

This camera is all manual with no light meter.  For this shoot I used the "sunny 16" rule and set my camera at 1/500 second and f/11-f/16 when it was sunny (bright) and then adjusted as necessary. Basically, I eye-balled the exposure.

I used my waist level viewfinder for this shoot with the magnifying eyepiece throughout the shoot.  It takes a bit of getting used to because everything is reversed in the viewfinder.  It takes some practice to get used to focusing.  But then when you push the shutter release button, hmmmm, butter.  The slap is like music.

That roll went fast.  Just snapshots around town.  I'll report back when I get the film back from developing.

Is That A Camera In Your Pocket Or Are You Just Happy To See Me

Back in the day, 110 sized film cameras were the bomb.  Everyone had one, and everyone processed the film.  These camera were easy to use, rarely a battery and mostly point & shoots.  The film was self contained with no mess or fuss.

If people still shoot film it's mainly 35mm, 120mm or instant film format.  There are several large format film shooters, but rarely do you find 110 film being used.   That doesn't mean you can't shoot these cute little cameras.  I still do for giggles.  I probably have 5 110 sized cameras.  Lomography produces the film that I'm using, Lomography Tiger 200 Color is actually quite good.  They also produce Orca B&W.  

I found this Keystone Pocket-Matic 101 110 sized camera the other day at Goodwill, and loaded it up.  Just finished the roll tonight and will be sending it to The Darkroom over the weekend to see how it turned out. Should be groovy.  I'll report back.

An Impulse Buy...Yuck, Yuck...Get It?

Look what I found at Goodwill yesterday.  Its my latest film camera find.  An instant camera at that! This one is a Polaroid Impulse AF.  That's right it's Impulse AS F*CK.  What?? oh sorry, "Auto Focus".

I didn't have this version until yesterday.  The other Impulse cameras I have don't have the auto focus. The camera looks clean, the rollers are good, a fresh but empty pack of film (with a good battery) leads me to believe it will be A-OK.  Now time to run down to my local camera store and get a few packs of Impossible Project Film.  

There are a couple of features that make this camera the potential to be one of my go too instant cameras.  That is of course, if it works.  First there is a standard tripod mount.  Also, a self timer button.  Right on, Polaroid selfies!!  Also if the AF works then it will minimize out of focus photos. When you are paying $25/pack for 8 shots, you don't want out of focus images.  

I'll give this guy a go during my next model shoot.  More to come.