Tips For Buying a Used Film Camera

Buying a Used Film Camera: 10 Quick Checks Before You Buy

New to film photography? Learn how to confidently buy a 35mm camera with these 10 simple checks — from batteries and shutters to lens condition and pricing.

You’ve spotted a used film camera at a flea market, camera shop, or garage sale — and you’re wondering, does it work? That’s the right question to ask first.

Film cameras are everywhere these days: thrift stores, antique markets, online auctions, and camera shows. But unless you’re buying from a knowledgeable seller, it’s smart to do a few basic checks before buying. Film cameras are wonderfully mechanical, but they’re also decades old — so a careful look can save you money and disappointment.

I buy film cameras regularly and have a simple, experience-based checklist that helps me quickly decide whether a camera is worth buying. These 10 tips will help you do the same — no tools required.

1. Check the Battery Compartment

Most film cameras use a battery — even if it’s only for the light meter. Open the battery door and look for corrosion, residue, or leaking cells. If you see heavy corrosion or a crusty battery inside, skip it. Cleaning is tricky, and damaged electronics are often beyond repair unless the camera is rare or for display only.

2. Make Sure the Battery Type Is Available

Some older cameras use discontinued mercury cells or uncommon voltages. Stick with models that take readily available types like LR44, SR44, or AA batteries. You’ll save yourself a lot of hassle later.

3. Check the Price

Before buying, search the camera model online — eBay “sold” listings, KEH, or camera forums usually show consistent prices. If the asking price is much higher, don’t overpay. There are plenty of great cameras out there.

4. Know the Film Type

A quick Google search will tell you what film the camera takes. For beginners, 35mm cameras are ideal: film is easy to find at most pharmacies or big-box stores. 120 film (used in medium-format cameras) offers great image quality but is harder to find and costs more. Avoid less common formats like 110, 127, or 620, and steer clear of Advantix (APS) cameras — that film hasn’t been made in years.

5. Test the Film Advance

If the camera has a manual advance lever, try it. If it’s jammed, press the shutter button. If the shutter doesn’t fire, the mechanism may be stuck or broken. Repairs can be expensive, so it’s usually best to move on.

6. Inspect the Shutter and Film Chamber

Open the camera back and check inside — it should be clean and free of rust or residue. For SLRs, advance the film and press the shutter while pointing the camera toward a light source: the shutter curtain should open smoothly, the mirror should lift, and you should see light through the lens. For point-and-shoots, open the back and press the shutter (if the camera has power). If nothing happens, it may have electrical issues.

7. Check the Camera Back

Make sure the door opens and closes securely. Loose hinges or gaps can lead to light leaks, which will fog your film and ruin your photos.

8. Look for Cracks or Damage

Scratches and scuffs are normal and give a camera character. But cracks, bent parts, or open seams can cause light leaks or structural issues. Avoid cameras with major physical damage.

9. Inspect the Lens (for SLRs and Interchangeable-Lens Cameras)

Hold the lens up to a light. A little dust is fine, but look out for mold, haze, or deep scratches. Rotate the focus and zoom rings — they should turn smoothly and quietly. Sticky or gritty movement is a red flag.

10. Test the Electronics

If the camera has a light meter, LCD, or auto-exposure system, check that they work. Ask the seller if a battery is installed so you can test it. If they can’t or won’t provide one, it’s safer to pass.

Final Thoughts

If a camera passes these simple tests and the price feels fair, you’ve likely found a winner. Buying vintage or used cameras always carries a little risk — even the best-looking one might need minor servicing — but these quick checks will help you avoid costly surprises.

Take your time, do your research, and enjoy the hunt. A good film camera can last decades — and once you hear that satisfying click, you’ll understand why so many photographers still shoot film.

My Darkroom

I put together a home DARKROOM. I've been developing & scanning photographic film for years but have not printed any of my photos. After taking a darkroom class earlier this year I felt it was time.

My goals were: 

• Put the darkroom together "on the cheap" 
• No modifications to the space. 

I wanted to keep the total cost (not including chemicals) under $300. This budget combined with no physical modifications meant if I didn't like using a darkroom the amount invested wasn't large and it would be easy to return the space to its original condition.

I didn't want to buy anything new if possible. Repurposed items available at home, items purchased used or cheaply. The only item purchased at full price was the Paterson Darkroom Safelight. The total cost came in just under $250.

First, the location. I have a "spare" bathroom I've used to develop film for several years. The bathroom is split into a sink area and then a separate shower / tub toilet area. The shower / toilet area has a door so it's separated from the sink area. This is the space I used for the darkroom. The space I'm using is about 7'x4'.

Here's what the space looks like & includes:

I put the enlarger on a rolling utility cart that fit nicely under the window and next to some built in shelves. The cart holds is big enough to hold the enlarger, the paper easel & an old iPhone that I'm using as a timer (red light accessibility setting). 

Next to the rolling cart is a storage cabinet (for towels, etc) that is unused. I put a small adjustable height folding table on top of it to hold the chemical trays. 

The safelight is simply propped up securely on a towel rack. 

In the shower / tub there is a clothing rack that has a plastic cover over it. That is the space where I'll hang the prints to dry. Inside the clothing rack is a piece of acrylic plastic and squeegee to wipe water off the paper. On the bottom of the tub under the spout is an unused car oil changing pail. I put legs on one side so when in the shower the curved lip is the lower than the water level so water will run out. This is where I'll wash the developed and fixed paper. 

Finally, I used some black out curtain material from Amazon (aluminized on one side / black on the other) to cover the window. I simply cut it to shape and mounted it with Velcro. I did a light tight check and ended up putting gaffers tape up on several spots. 

After the sun sets with the sink area lights off the darkroom is completely dark. During the day there is light gap under the door so I've made a simple black cloth snake I put under the door. It works. 

Here's a breakdown of the items and costs:

• Enlarger - Omega ColorPrintMaker - Facebook Marketplace = $100
• Paper easel - came with the enlarger
• Paterson Darkroom Safelight - Roberts Camera = $62
• Plastic 30'x20" folding table - Amazon = $30
• Trays & tongs - Roberts Camera "tent sale" = <$5
• Paterson Micro Focus Finder - from a friend = free
• Timer - unused iPhone stopwatch app with red light setting
• Oil changing pail - had at home / repurposed
• Drying rack with plastic over - have been using for film developing
• Plexiglas and squeegee - Lowes = ~$25
• Hanging clips - have had available but not used
• Black out curtain - Amazon = $20
• Enlarger rolling table - had at home / repurposed

I also bought a 250 count of Ilford Multigrade 8x10 paper from Roberts Camera at their tent sale for $40 (it had just past the expiration date). I also have about 3x1/2 assorted boxes of paper left over from my darkroom class. 

So I'm ready to go. I'll check back in after my first test session on any changes needed. Should be fun!