Ferrania Orto 50 35mm Film

 

I've recently tested Ferrania's Orto 50 in 35mm for the first time. As with all new film stocks I was excited to give it a try. 

I shot a roll through my Nikon F4 and a roll through a Hasselblad X-Pan. Both rolls were used on different but very sunny days. Both rolls were home developed using stock Kodak D-76 for 7 minutes as recommended by Ferrania.  

Not going to lie I didn't like the results. The key word for this film based on how I shot and developed the film is CONTRAST.  This might be an understatement. Honestly, the images straight out of the scanner are unusable without significant editing. 

Examples from the XPan:

Examples from the Nikon F4:

I might be able to tone down the contrast and improve quality of the images by spot metering on the shadows. However, the Nikon was matrix metered and I didn't consider it with the XPan.

A few observations about the images without editing:

• The shadows / midtones are so dark every dust spot shows up like a spotlight,
• Highlights are surprisingly understated,
• Grain is very fine / almost non-existing,

I did not shoot any of the images in overcast conditions, so this condition may be better for the film.

HOWEVER, there is detail in the shadows and because of the fine grain / moderate highlights there is lots of room to edit the images. 

I normally don't spend much time editing my film images, but for this film I did .... A LOT. All of the images were edited in both Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop. 

Here are some of the above photos that have been edited:

 

Bottomline, I don't like making negative comments about any film stock, but I don't think I'll be using this film again. I prefer less contrast even though I enjoy the fine grain. However, if you enjoy contrast or are shooting in more muted lighting the Orto 50 may be for you.

Konica Autoreflex TC

I recently purchased 3 different "as is" Konica Autoflex cameras (bodies only) from Used Photo Pro in Indianapolis. UPP has a section in the store that sells assorted cameras / lenses / equipment in "as is" condition. This means what it says. There are no guarantees and in almost every situation the equipment is in rough condition cosmetically or mechanically. Caveat Emptor! However, in my experience I've rarely purchased an as-is camera that I can't get working. 

The cameras in this section are normally sold in for $10-15 without a lens or $25 with a lens. 

The first Autoreflex I tested was the Autoreflex TC. The camera works A-OK, but you can no longer purchase the 1.35V mercury batteries needed to operate or check the light meter. You can hack the batteries, but the camera does operates without a battery. You simply need to use an external meter (which I do) or shoot sunny 16. 

I didn't have a lens for the Konica Autoreflex line so I purchased an f/3.5 28mm Konica Hexanon lens from KEH. The lens is perfect for street photography and general photography.

This is not a technical review. If you want to see the specs Butkus.org has a manual: Autoreflex TC. 

A few key features of the Autoreflex:

• Speed from B to 1/1000
• Light meter turns on simply by partially initiating the film transport lever and is turned off by pushing the "off" switch. These means the battery is not accidentally drained (if you do have a battery)
• Shutter release can not be activated when the light meter is "off"
• ISO range from 25-1600
• Synch speed of 1/125
• Without a battery the camera can be operated in fully manual mode (flexibility with speed and aperture).
• Well built but lots of plastic
• Form factor is fairly compact & a bit "slippery"

I enjoyed shooting the camera. Here are a few images from my test shoot using a roll of LuckyPan SHD400 developed with Rodinal 1:25 for 7 minutes. The film and developer creates significant grain & contrast which probably wasn't the best film for a test. However, it did show that the camera worked well.

Konica Hexar Silver

One of my favorite cameras is a recently purchased Konica Hexar Silver. The Hexar has a classic rangefinder design that can be used as an auto-focusing point & shoot or fully manual camera. It's very easy to use in all modes and has the following features:

Basic Features:

• Classic rangefinder size (think Leica M6), solid & nice ergonomics.
• Extremely sharp Konica Hexar 35mm f/2.0 lens with built in lens hood.
• Aperture range from f/2.0 to f/22.
• Program, Aperture priority & manual mode (I've used it in Program mode primarily).
• Autofocus is fast and true.
• Hotshoe.
• ISO set through DX coding or manually from 6-6400.
• Very quiet shutter which makes it great for street photography or when you need stealth.

Negatives:

• Manual focus is done through the up / down buttons on the top of the camera and honestly is not useful in most situations (possibly when on a tripod with a self timer).
• Top shutter speed of 1/250.
• Lens cap doesn't fit securely when the lens is fitted with a filter.
• Exposure meter is on the outside of the lens (non TTL) close to the lens, so you need to be careful to keep your finger off of it while shooting. Also, therefore, when using a filter you need to adjust the ISO manually.

The top deck is very clean with an information LCD screen, shutter release with surrounding aperture dial, self timer button & easy to use mode switch. No clutter.

The only downside in my experience is that the maximum shutter speed means you need to be mindful of the film speed based on the lighting you will experience. A very day means you need slower speed film. Other than that it's a very nice camera that I've used primarily as a high end point & shoot.

I've shot my Konica Hexar regularly with different film types. Here are a few examples:

Chicago - CineStill 800T

Chicago - CineStill 800T

Chicago - CineStill 800T

Kansas - Fujicolor 200

Colorado Springs - Fujicolor 200

Chicago - Eastman Double-X

Chicago - Eastman Double-X

Chicago - Eastman Double-X

Colorado - Fujicolor 200

Colorado - Fujicolor 200

Colorado - Fujicolor 200

Indianapolis - Tri-X 400

Indianapolis - Tri-X 400

Indianapolis - Tri-X 400

Vision3 Remjet Removal

 

I want to discuss my current process to remove remjet on Vision3 film during home development.

Kodak Vision3 is a good 35mm color film option. Vision3 is a motion picture film sold in bulk rolls and cartridges by Kodak, online sellers, repackagers & distributors. The KEY with Vision3 film is REMJET.

Remjet is a black, carbon-based anti-halation, anti-static lubricant layer on the non-emulsion side (back) of the film. It DOES NOT affect exposing film in your camera. However, the remjet layer MUST be removed before the negatives are scanned as remjet is completely opaque. Remjet is removed when the film is developed using C-41 or ECN-2 chemistry.

Removing remjet is EASY, BUT must be done completely. Any remaining remjet on a negative will show up on scans as subtle or significant spots or area difficult to edit out.

There are 2 ways to remove remjet during home C-41 or ECN-2 development. They are:

• Rubbing the remjet off after the negative is developed but before dried.
• During developing using a remjet removal prebath solution.

The easiest way to remove the remjet layer is to “rub” it off AFTER the film is developed before the final wash. This can be done with a microfiber cloth or your hand. Note, if you remove remjet manually then latex gloves are important as remjet is sticky and a mess to clean up. Personally, I’ve found this process a mess and I never seem to get all the remjet off.

The process I have tested and is now my preferred method is to use a remjet removal prebath I mix with “off the shelf” chemicals. Note, there are several DIY prebaths formulas online available but this method / formula has worked well for me.

First the workflow and then the formula.

My remjet removal and film developing workflow is:

1. Measure and mix the remjet prebath chemicals & tap water sufficient to make 1 liter (leftovers can be stored).
2. Bring the prebath solution and additional rinse water sufficient to fill the tank twice to 102 F.
3. Add the 102F remjet prebath to the daylight developing tank. Agitate gently for about 15 seconds and let sit for 1 minute.
4. Pour prebath mixture out.
5. Immediately fill the developing tank with 102F water. Agitate continuously for 1 minute.
6. Pour water out. The remjet will come out during this step. 
7. Add 102F water in tank again agitating gently for about 15 seconds, pour out.
8. Develop as desired with C-41 or ECN-2.
9. Rinse film as recommended with developing chemicals.
10. Prior to hanging the negatives to dry wipe gently with a microfiber cloth. I’ve found once is sufficient. This is simply an extra step to remove any remaining remjet.
11. Hang film to dry.

What it looks like pouring out the prebath solution:

The wash after prebath. This step is when the remjet comes off:

Formula for the remjet removal prebath is based on the Kodak’s 1999 document “Processing Kodak Motion Picture Films, Module 2 Equipment & Procedures” page 27. The formula is:

• Water at 80-100F: 800ml
• Borax: 20.0g
• Sodium Sulfate (Anhydrous): 100g 
• Sodium Hydroxide: 1g
• Water to make: 1L

I simply weigh each chemical with a digital kitchen scale, mix it into 800ml water in a measuring cup one chemical at a time and then add water to bring the solution up to 1L. I bring the prebath up to temperature in a sous vide. 

I purchase Borax at a grocery store and the other 2 chemicals on Amazon. 

Bottomline, I’ve shot Vision3 film with a remjet layer regularly over the past few years and have found this workflow has produced the best results for me.

Nikon F4

 

I purchased a Nikon F4 from Midwest Photo in Columbus, OH. The camera is in good mechanical condition but obviously well used. Because of the fairly below average cosmetic condition it was offered at a very reasonable price (~$450). 

The F4 is a massive SLR with basically all the features you would find in a contemporary DSLR. It weighs in at 3.8 lbs with a 50mm f/1.8 lens. A few of my favorite features:

• Wide ISO range from DX, 6-6400
• Shutter speed from T/B-1/8000
• Built in vertical grip with shutter release on the grip perfect for studio / portrait work
• Film advance mode flexibility: Lock, Single, Continuous (High, Low, Slow), Timer
• Exposure mode: Ph, P, S, A, M
• Metering swich: Spot, Average, Matrix
• Almost all selection dials have a lock

I've put about a dozen rolls through the camera during several street photography photoshoots. I really enjoy the camera even with the weight and lack of stealthiness. It's currently my favorite SLR. 

Here are several images:

Chicago - Harman Phoenix 200 at 160

Chicago - Harman Phoenix 200 at 160

Chicago - Harman Phoenix 200 at 160

Chicago - Harman Phoenix 200 at 160

Louisville - Flic Film Elektra 100

Louisville - Flic Film Elektra 100

Indianapolis Grafitti - Harman Phoenix 200 at 160

Indianapolis Grafitti - Harman Phoenix 200 at 160

Indianapolis Grafitti - Harman Phoenix 200 at 160

Fountain Square - SHD100

Fountain Square - SHD100

Fountain Square - SHD100

Chicago with a Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 lens - SHD100